Povoa de Varzim to Porto Santo. 27th
September to 2nd October
It all began with a
locking turn in the Furling drum………………….warning, this account may make you
seasick or start to exude sympathy.
After waiting for 2
weeks for favourable winds to sail direct to Porto Santo 615 miles away [25
miles N of Madeira] we slipped from our berth at 10:15 on Thursday morning 27th
September. There was no rush as we knew we had to motor for a few hours till
the wind kicked in which it did 2 hours later. We had a great genoa run under
full sail. 8 hours later, at 10pm as we changed watch and with a brisk
Northerly 5 blowing, Steve decided to roll some genoa away for overnight. At
no. 3 genoa size the furling line fell in on itself inside the drum and jammed
tight. With a dark night and a rough sea there was nothing to do until
daylight.
Day 2 Friday September 28th
With a very rocky
rolly boat down below my sea sickness came back. A combination of tension,
tiredness, and lack of food we think. At 7:30 as daylight was just breaking Steve
went forward onto the bow to try and untangle the furling line in the drum. No
way was that going to happen and a perfectly good screwdriver pinged overboard
almost immediately. We then prepared to take the genoa down and replace it with
the storm jib as the wind was now well into a Force 6 with apparent wind at
25kn. As we turned and motored into the wind to lower the sail it was blowing 32
knots with a 4 metre swell. Steve was on the bow of the boat, clipped on with 2
tethers, completely engulfed by the huge sail. The boat was all over the place
with the combination of wind, sea state and me at the helm! Steve managed to
get the sail down and keep it all on the boat, though the bolt rope jammed in
the foil about 8 foot from the head of the sail. Turning and motoring back down
wind allowed us to get the remainder of the sail down, though the bolt rope was
ripped in the process. Once down we had to bundle it up and move it off the
foredeck back to just in front of the sprayhood so we could hoist the storm jib using the spare genoa halyard and
genoa sheets. All this before 10:30.
Once this was done
everything settled down a bit. The boat was sailing happily at 6 knots. This
with a storm jib of 7.5 sq metres which is a smaller area than some windsurfer
sails. Steve now demanded his breakfast!! However he had to get it himself
[remember the seasick galley slave was out of commission] The sea and wind
built all day and at 19:30 with 38kn of wind on the stern and a 6 metre swell, we
went below, closed all the hatches and left the boat in the capable hands of
George the autopilot. Throughout the night we periodically had a quick look
around, but it appeared we were the only ones in this bit of the Atlantic.
[Mind you it is difficult to see anything at the bottom of a 6 metre wave.]
Day 3 Saturday 29th September .
After
a good nights sleep, [everything is relative] things looked a little better
this morning. We appear to be gradually sorting all the knocks, bangs and
rattles out. Thank goodness for bubblewrap, t-towels, and napkins. The sea and
wind had quietened a little and Steve went up on the foredeck to try and
untangle the furling line. He was there an hour, was successful but a little
grey when he came back to the cockpit. We had the means now to use the genoa
again. Unfortunately, with 22 knots of wind right on the stern it was too windy
to put it up again. We were doing 4-5knots under storm jib and it was so
frustrating that we had the wind we wanted and no sail to do the job.
Feeling better today this afternoon,
I put together a beef and mushroom casserole for dinner. We tried and failed
several times to get a weather forecast from our new sat phone and grib files.
Abandoning this we used a new tactic and called up a passing tanker on the
radio at 17:30. We had last seen “Atlantic Hope” in Coruna. We could imagine
the radio operator running round for permission to respond to us. A very nicely
spoken guy replied to us and acknowledged our request for a weather forecast.
The forecast given for the area just south of where we were was for wind Force
5-6 with the sea rough to very rough, decreasing moderate to rough. We thanked
them and they continued on their way passing us within ½ mile.
| Tanker Atlantic Hope helped us with a weather forecast |
Day 4 Sunday 30/9/12
Up before
daylight with a plan to put up the
mainsail with 2 reefs in. I was struggling to keep the boat turned into the
wind while the sail went up and was very relieved to pull in the mainsheet. The
next few minutes are a blur, but suffice it to say that I gybed the main sail. In
the total utter panic that overtook me I then took it back. A double whammy.
[Not my finest hour]. The shackle on the mainsheet traveller sheared and became
a flying missile. Whilst taming the wild boom Steve fell hurting his back and
lower ribs with a glancing blow on his head. I was lashed by rope but nothing
worse than bruises to either of us thank goodness. A very tense half hour
followed. I was devastated and not much use, not that I trusted myself to do
anything at that time. Steve dropped the mainsail, scandalised the boom and
then tied it down to the aft cleats. He then went for a lie down complaining he
was a bit poorly. I was left on watch. At about 10:15 Steve came up on deck and
noticed the wheel was not turning. I had been facing forwards watching Steve,
the sail and the chart plotter. Our course was still good but the steering had
failed. We then had to empty the aft cabin as the steering gear is under the
bunk. We had the prospect of rigging emergency steering in the aft cabin and
then removing the binnacle in the cockpit to check the linkages. Fortunately
when Steve looked at the steering cables under the bunk he found they had
worked loose and fallen off the rudder quadrant. Job done in 45 minutes. Good
job George is connected straight onto the rudder quadrant!!
Flush with success we
decided to have an early lunch. We were having more beef casserole with added
tinned veg. As I turned the tin opener one of the cogs sheared. A moment of
disbelief followed. Fortunately we had a
spare! Over lunch we chatted and tried to formulate a new plan. We could not
make more than 4knots in 18kn wind. We needed the mainsail up and out secured
with a preventer. Steve jury rigged the traveller using cord and we got the
main up with 2 reefs as planned. We took the storm jib down acknowledging what
a good job it had done. Unbelievably we were still only making between 4-5
knots.
Steve was beginning
to get stiff and sore and went to bed about 10pm. We had seen no ships all day.
I set my minute minder for 1 hour and lay down. An hour later it went off. I
got up had a look around. Nil to see. Back to bed. An hour later same
procedure, and again and again. I was getting tired but Steve was fast asleep.
Eventually I forgot to reset the timer and slept for 3 hours. Steve got up
next. No change and no boats seen. Monday morning dawned.
Day 5 Monday 1st
October.
We ran the engine to
charge batteries this morning. The confused sea meant the wind generator was
struggling to run and there had been no sun for a couple of days either so the
solar panel was not giving enough power either. However the upside was with hot
water we could have showers. Now ladies, I want you to imagine this. Having a
shower in a moving boat is a bit like a shower on a 4 way randomly moving
escalator; up and down and back and forwards. Add to this needing 1 hand to
hold on to a grab rail and 1 to get the shampoo out of the bottle. All the
while being aware not to use too much
water and to remember to switch on the drain pump so as not to flood the
boat. Hmm, you see it may be a little
problematic at times. However, nothing beats the feeling of mastering all the
obstacles and ending up feeling clean and fresh after all that salt.
Things started
getting better on Monday. We managed to get the genoa off the foredeck, roll it
along the length of the boat, hoist it back up and roll it away. Steve threaded
the sail through the groove and I winched it up the forestay. [This was my
Monday afternoon gym session] Steve found the problem with the furling line and
moved the nearest guide to the bow lower down and now the line runs well. We
shook a reef out of the mainsail as the wind was lightening. The winds remained
too light to fill either sail. We ran under main doing only 4 kn. The wind
could not be more on the stern.
We were visited by a
large pod of Atlantic spotted dolphins. Unfortunately we were not travelling
fast enough to interest them for long and they swam by.
Day 6 Tuesday 2nd
October.
Up at 7am to gybe the
boat onto the other tack. Wind less than 10 knots on the stern. Freshly baked
scones , yoghurt and coffee for breakfast. We attempted to get the genoa out
but not enough wind to set it so rolled it away again immediately.
We made the decision
to start the engine which would mean entering Porto Santo in daylight this evening rather
than during the night. It was a good feeling to get sight of land and as the
sun came out for the first time in 5 days we sat on the foredeck and absorbed some vitamin D. We entered
Porto Santo Harbour at 17:15 and within ½ hour were tied up to a mooring buoy
and enjoying a well deserved beer. On Wednesday morning we moved to a marina
berth and began the process of washing 6 days salt off the boat. She scrubs up
rather well. Well done Chewsy. Well done us!
Wow! Well done you two, and Chewsey. Much of your blog seems to be in a foreign language. I'm not very familiar with sailing terms. You certainly seem to have been through the mire on the latest stage of your journey. Thank God you are both capable of coping. Be careful, God bless. Anthony and Shirley.xxx
ReplyDeleteThanks Ant and Shirley. Sorry if its too technical. I'm trying to get a balance so that our sailing friends don't think I'm a complete numpty.Gorgeous day here today. Waiting for some wind to carry us to Tenerife in time for the 16th October when Paul, Lindsey and James fly out for a week. Thank you for your prayers. There were a lot said on the last passage!
ReplyDeleteHave just read your account of your "stormy" voyage & very impressed with your ability to cope with all these mishaps. Well done all three of you! As you may remember, we have some experience of a jammed furling line. It was frightening enough with a genoa half the size of yours & only in the Clyde,so it must have been 1000 times worse out in the Atlantic! All the best for the next leg.
ReplyDeletePS Lovely to see Chewsy again. It's not the same looking across the marina at two empty berths! We miss you.
Love Allan & Marjorie xx
I'm sure that someone just wants to keep us on our toes, maybe we need to sprinkle some more Holy Water around!! Trying to get the genny down I was thinking of taking my knife to it as it was jammed in the foil, luckily as that thought was bouncing around a bit more brute force & ignorance got it on the move again. Very little damage to the bolt rope and we were able to hoist it again with no trouble once the wind dropped enough to let us.
DeleteWe'll try to keep the next instalment less exciting. Take care.
Hi Chris and Steve
ReplyDeleteWell done and give Chewsy and George a pat.
Hope the next leg is less dramatic.
Wish I was with you.
Take care
John et al
Hi John,
DeleteDefinitely hoping the next leg is less stressful. Beautiful balmy night here with a warm 29 degrees
Energetic excitement good for yeahs eh? Well done indeed. Now's time for more relaxed and pain-free passages without any of the same sort of hassle. Enjoy and have some great sailing. Keep up the blog 'cause it's good and I'm making extra notes for next year.
ReplyDeleteHave definitely ordered some pain free passages after the last one. Just a short hop to Tenerife next [300 miles or so]Feel free to make notes!!
DeleteHi Chris and Steve.. what an adventurous few days.. so glad you got to land ..and I bet that beer tasted great.. Diane Kerr
ReplyDeleteThe beer tasted great. Ready to move on in the next couple of days
DeleteIt' not all sun, sandy beaches and pina coladas ;) (i wish it were), now just wait till that autopilot fails and you have to hand steer 600 nm ... hopefully catch up with you guys in the canaries in a couple of weeks, getting the boat lifted out later this week for the new rudder bearings to go on, fingers crossed no gremlins come along!
ReplyDeleteIn Santa Cruz Tenerife now. Hopefully catch up at some point. Hope the lift out goes ok.
ReplyDeleteHi Guys, wow, just read this!! not sure I will share with Karen just yet :-) still working on 'its a good idea, honest' :-) Chris, your explanation of the issues and your resolutions is really great to read as it will give others (me, et al) the confidence to get on with it when things go wrong. Had the furling line drop off a charter boat once, in the Clyde, and that was bad enough to sort in daylight.
ReplyDeleteFair winds and kind seas
Mark and Karen
Hi Mark, great to hear from you. Yes that trip certainly kept us on our toes but it was just a case of dealing with things as and when we could. It was a strange sensation to go below close the hatches and let the boat get on with her job which she did admirably. Things have been much less exciting since and we have number 1 son & family aboard at the moment so taking it easy around La Gomera before heading back to Teneriffe next week to let them go home.
DeleteYou can let Karen know that there are fantastic times to be had, some of the anchorages in particular have been brilliant.
Take care and all our best to you both.