Montserrat post updated

Before we left Antigua I bought a washing machine. Marlene on Rafiki was selling the one below and I couldn't resist buying it. I haven't used it yet but it has to be better than hand washing in a bucket! It should work off our 150 watt inverter. [21/3/13. Used it now and it's great]

We left Antigua and enjoyed a good sail over to Montserrat with full sail out and a south easterly wind

Soufriere Hills Volcano 

This catch of a blue fin tuna restored our faith in fishing.

Typical. A great catch when we have a fridge full of fresh meat.

Visit to Montserrat 

We left Antigua after our 28 days had expired and with the weather and sea state reasonable for our trip west we left Deep Bay on Friday 15^th March heading for Montserrat. We had a reasonable sail and were fortunate to catch a Blue Fin Tuna for dinner. The customs and immigration formalities were in the port almost next to each other and simple to complete, though they close at 15:15 and overtime is charged after this. The crew off Ruffian, Ian and Fiona, were asked for overtime charges of about $40 US on Saturday morning. They opted not to go ashore.

Montserrat had great free wifi and we were able to catch up with friends and family. We also arranged to take an island tour on the Saturday morning. Unfortunately we were unable to get in touch with either of the guides who had been personally recommended to us.

We had arranged to go with ‘Moose’ who pointed out his very smart taxi. However, when we arrived on Saturday morning we found we had been sub contracted to ‘Shevington’ in his beat up Toyota. C’est la vie.

Shevington was in his early seventies and what he lacked in knowledge about the volcano and its history he more than made up for with his knowledge of the island, and its real estate. He also appeared to know every person on the island.

He was quite chatty and as he drove us south he pointed out the various landmarks. He had been at his home in the south when the volcano erupted and he came north to the village of Salem. His home was destroyed. Now he lives in an 8 unit apartment block in the north of the island built by the government for displaced citizens.

                                                                             Shevington, relaxing in the shade

As we drove along the windy roads there was the constant tooting of horns which appeared to be sounded at the brow of every hill and before each bend. Shevington pointed out the mahogany tree forest and stated that citizens building their own homes were entitled to cut down 1 mahogany tree [the oldest that was there] and use it to make furniture for their new home. If they needed more than one tree they had to apply for special permission. There was no charge for this.  

He also pointed out the free land covered with every kind of fruit tree. People are also able to take a fruit from each tree for their own use at no charge. He told us tales of wild animals in the forests in the north of the island, where cattle, goats and pigs roamed. It was possible to hunt in these forests with a shotgun, and kill an animal, again for personal use at no charge. I was fascinated at this way of life and its self regulation.

We were treated to a derelict hotel complex in zone B of the island, a tour of the government buildings, the law courts, prison, fire and police department. We also saw the hospital, and sheltered housing for the elderly. Within this complex is a restaurant for residents who cannot /do not wish to cook for themselves. The price of a meal $1 EC [25p].

There is a lot of heavy investment in the island particularly from the UK government. There is over 40 square miles of land in the so called safe zone, with more outside this. Property has changed hands since the volcano eruptions 8 years ago and many real estate bargains were snapped up by British and Americans, buying second homes.

All in all, we had a good morning and considered the tour interesting though not high quality.

After my second night without sleep because of the sea conditions, I was more than ready to miss the St. Patrick Day celebrations on the Sunday and head north for Nevis and hopefully a good sleep.

Outside the Volcano observatory. Closed on Saturdays so outside views only.

Plymouth, Capital of Montserrat, devastated by the volcano eruption of 1995

                                 

New catholic church in on of the 'new towns' the government is building for the displaced population of the south

The current airport only caters for small 7 seater planes like the one above.

New buildings going up in what will be the new capital. No name yet.

Video of Indian Creek Anchorage, Antigua

This is my first attempt at publishing a video on here. It shows a fabulous, sheltered anchorage on the south coast of Antigua. We went there after leaving Nonsuch Bay. This is where I spent the latter part of Mothers Day. Fortunately I had received my good wishes from the kids and spoken to my mum by sat phone earlier in the day. The holding was great in mud. So good that 2 days later we are still getting mud off the anchor. 

Antigua

Checking in with customs in Antigua gave us a cruising permit for 1 month. Plenty of time!

Our first week flew by with us not moving from the Jolly Harbour anchorage. We spent 1 night in the marina, but it was expensive and to be honest the anchorage was much nicer. During our first week here, we did a bit of childminding for Emma & Russell on Madfish whilst they went out for dinner. We caught up with Steve and Nic on Crazy Diamond who came around from English Harbour to meet us and stayed a week. We also went into St. Johns with them on the bus for a wander around. We said goodbye to April and Alan and wished them safe sailing as they move south. They are selling their immaculate Moody 346 at the end of the season and we wish them well. [If anyone is interested let me know and I’ll forward details.] We also caught up with Mick and Gill off ‘Bluejacket’ last seen in Santa Cruz, Tenerife. All in all it was a hectic week socially.

There is a decent supermarket in the Jolly Harbour complex which kept us supplied well and it was there we visited prior to leaving the harbour and moving north under engine, a whole 3.8 miles, into Deep Bay. Its name reflects the depth of the bay and not the depth of water. We anchored in 3 metres. The seabed is very flat all the way in and we could have got in much closer to shore than we did. This bay was well situated to protect from Northerly swells which were quite frequent and a result of bad weather further north.

 Example of the gorgeous Antiguan properties which abound around the coast.

  

After spending 2 days anchored in Deep Bay, we amended our schedule and decided not to head north to Barbuda [because of the swell which would have made for both an uncomfortable passage AND a very rolly anchorage. As I said to Steve. It’s only a beach. Granted a big long 6 mile golden sand beach, but still a beach! And not much else. So we headed south and sailed inside the reef line, again with our 1^st reef and no. 2 genoa. After 2 hours the sails were away and we were back to being a motor boat. We were aiming for Falmouth Harbour on the South coast, but were lured into small Morris Bay because it looked so pretty and quiet. There were only 2 other boats there. We anchored in 3.5 metres of clear water. There was a large all inclusive resort onshore, which did not impact on us at all, apart from giving us free wifi. We dinghied ashore for a walk along the beach and then went back to the boat for a swim.

                                                                     Morris Bay

 The next morning was chore time and Steve snorkelled under the boat to clean the hull and propeller of barnacles and weed. This is now a very necessary part of life.

An essential tool is a wallpaper scraper attached to an aluminium handle by ducktape and a scotchbrite sponge. Oh and warm water, shower gel and a sponge to get the eroding antifoul off Steves head and back when he’s finished. Whilst Steve was outside I did my cleaning bit inside.

On Monday 25^th we left Morris Bay and motored the 5 miles east to Falmouth

Harbour anchoring off Pigeon Beach.

The view the other way was not quite as picturesque. Superyacht heaven!

We stayed 5 days here and felt no inclination to move round to English harbour. In fact when we looked at it from Fort Berkeley and saw the boats all at strange angles to each other, we much preferred Pigeon beach.

We did the tourist bit and wandered around Nelsons dockyard, visited the museum full of interesting artefacts as well as the gift shops. I took copious amounts of pictures as usual. [See the pictures pages]

My birthday coincided with our stay here and I was treated to both lunch and dinner out in Falmouth harbour, with its many varied restaurants and bars. It was a good excuse to dress up. Not many reasons to do that out here. Of course going ashore by dinghy there is always the risk of being very wet when you arrive at your destination. This didn’t happen that night fortunately although the engine did just stop half way in for no reason whatsoever. We had resigned ourselves to paddling back to the boat when Steve tried one more time and hey presto it started.  ?? it flooded but why. Anyway we got ashore, had a lovely meal and a walk afterwards and had an uneventful return to Chewsy.

For Steves birthday we restocked at the supermarket in Jolly harbour and made our way to the northeast of the island. Not much sailing to be done, but it’s something you have to accept. We managed ½ hours sailing before taking both sails down and switching on the engine.

I was a bit apprehensive about the next part of the trip because we were dodging the reefs and the books make it sound very difficult. Added to that we had heard a radio PAN PAN from a French boat on the reef in Nonsuch bay the week before. They were pulled off by the coastguard boat. However Steve says I read too much, so I swallowed my apprehension and spent part of my time on the bow looking into the water. Most of the reefs are well defined, but when the sun goes in you are on your own. We had a south easterly wind as we motored south [sounds about right!] Fortunately it was light and the sea swell was minimal. Good job really as there was nothing between us and Africa.

We dismissed the anchorage off Great Bird Island which had 7 boats in and decided to go between Rabbit island and Redhead island. Just made for us. It was our own piece of paradise. Good swimming and snorkelling and with a colony of pelicans a heartbeat away. Happy Birthday Steve.