Grenada to Bequia
Our arrival in
Prickley Bay Grenada was something of an anticlimax. We anchored in the bay.
Climbing out of the dinghy onto shore was no big deal. It was as though I’d
done a 2 hour sail, not that I’d been away from land for over 2 weeks. Steve
went to customs and immigration and I waited in the bar. The barman had
obviously heard it all before and didn’t even falter in the pouring of the
beer.
I briefly thought of
the ARC participants who were greeted with rum punches and T-shirts, and
congratulations. Oh well- we congratulated each other. Later on we chatted with
other atlantic crossers and found that this was a common theme. The achievement
was a personal milestone after all.
We spent Christmas in
St. Georges the capital of Grenada, in the Grenada Yacht Club. There was really
heavy rain over the holiday and we wondered where we had come to. It was not
what we had signed up for. I ordered wall to wall sunshine.
We met up with Emma
and Russell ‘Mad Fish’ and swapped crossing stories, as you do. They had much
stronger wind than us and made good time to St. Lucia.
Over Christmas we
discussed what happened next. We looked at the charts and pilot books and
decided where we wanted to go before heading to St. Lucia to meet Kath and
Andrew on January 10th.
We decided to move up
to Carriacou before new year. Our original plan was to stay in Port Louis
marina in St. Georges, a fabulous new complex with swimming pool etc. However,
time was of the essence and there were places to go and people to see. We left
St Georges on 29th December and had a hard, disappointing sail up to
Carriacou. Sailing was nearly impossible and we settled for main sail and
engine, motor sailing in the rain for most of the 7 hour trip. We anchored in
Tyrrel Bay which had about 100 boats in.
Because of the
disappointing sail, we were up early next morning and had a wonderful sail [but
hard on the wind] to Petite Saint Vincent. We anchored for a swim and then
lunch. The weather changed subtly and we returned to Hillsborough Bay,
Carriacou with 1st reef in the main and no 3 genoa.
On New Years Eve we
cleared out of the Grenadan Grenadines and then tacked up the channel between
Carriacou and Union island anchoring in Clifton Harbour, Union Island. This took a whole 2 hours. The immigration and
customs formalities were completed in the local airport which was about a 15
minute walk.
We met the crew of
Indulgence from Crosshaven again and as is always the case story swapping is
the topic of the day.
New years eve
afternoon saw us managing to Skype the family gathering in Cumbria, which was a
little emotional for me. We spent the
evening aboard Mad Fish.
New years day saw us
up early. We left Clifton Bay at 10:30am. It was a windy windy day. Did I
mention we now have no tactic wind instruments? Steve thinks we need new
batteries in the masthead unit. We will try and get this sorted in St. Lucia as
all the dealerships are closed for the Christmas and New Year holidays.
My log entries, read
“a bit windy” “windy”, “very windy” etc. We set the 1st reef in the
main and had No. 2 jib up. An hour and a half later we arrived at the Tobago
Cays. Wow! Certainly worth the very windy sail. Very crowded anchorages, but
there is always room for one more. There is a little shelter from the wind but
the reefs at least keep the sea flat. More swimming off the back of the boat.
Steve is happy. This is his favourite stop so far.
We stayed 2 nights in
the cays. On the second day we took the dinghy and went exploring round the
islands. A totally unforgettable experience.
We are just so sorry we can’t get
the family down here. There was a 20 Eastern Caribbean dollar anchoring charge
per night as the area is a national park [about £5.00]. In the Cays, the boat
boys come around in their fast ribs or local boats, selling everything from
fruit, to fish, to bread and croissants for breakfast. We indulged ourselves
and ordered croissants and a baguette!
After dragging
ourselves away from the Tobago Cays we aimed the boat towards Canouan and
tacked up towards Charlestown Bay with 1st reef in the main and No 2
genoa. Are you seeing a pattern to the sail plan? 1st reef in the main
and varying bits of genoa. Like I said, it’s windy out here. The permanent
cruisers call the wind “the Christmas Winds” and they should be gone by end of
January. Wind can be ENE / NE 15 – 22knots up to 40 knots at times in gusts. However,
gusts can last about an hour and a half. You don’t get much warning either.
Anyway, coming into
Charlestown we were keeping a close eye on a line of squalls in front of us. As
we tacked into the entrance of the bay the squall hit. The rain was so heavy
that Steve had to heave to as there was no visibility at all and we had to sail
between 2 buoys. That was not the answer though as the current was shifting us
sideways very fast. We started sailing again, Chewsy looking as though she had
2 drowned rats aboard. The pilot book had warned that the entrance to the bay
was windy. No exaggeration there then!
As the rain clouds
tore away, we anchored in the bay and the sun came out and we had a respectable
26.6 degrees of temperature with sunshine. We had lunch in the cockpit watching
the antics of a couple of big turtles swimming around the boat. We decided
Charlestown was not the best anchorage. It was very windy and there was a big
swell
The 4th
January saw us leaving Canouan [we wouldn’t go again] and heading for Bequia.
Our sail plan was as before, We were close on the wind on port tack in a very
lumpy sea (technical speak!!!). Fortunately, as before it was a short sail and
as we tacked in to Admiralty Bay [plenty of tacking practice taking place here]
a photographer appeared in a fast rib taking photos of the boat. He later
visited the boat with some proofs.
It’s a bit like
getting an aerial photo of your home. You just have to buy it. So we did!
We anchored in
Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth in a great spot, not far from a dinghy dock. We
stayed for a couple of days. We went to a great mass in the local church, full
of drums, choirs and childrens short plays.
Disaster struck as we
were getting ready to visit friends Stuart and Liz aboard Finn Rose, from
Scotland. The dinghy, complete with new Mercury engine, flipped in the strong
wind. The next day and a half passed in a blur as Steve tried everything to
remove the salt water from the engine. He phoned Kath on the sat phone to ask
about the routine the RNLI used during capsize drills; he cleaned the
carburettor, the plug was removed and dried, then replaced, etc, etc. It
started occasionally, but ultimately it was not reliable. This meant we needed
to rely on the old Suzuki which had been reconditioned in Tenerife. Ha!. Think
we were done. Still doesn’t work. Best place for that is in the nearest skip.
All this meant we had
to accept a lift ashore from Lee on "Jon Jon", so Steve could check out and we could
leave for our 12 hour plus trip up to Rodney Bay St. Lucia.